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Three great wines from Spain, Israel, and the U.S.A. (and a dud) along with some great food
Three weeks ago saw us hosting a meal with a bride and groom to be, family, the bride’s parents, and Benyamin Cantz as usual. To us they are all family and we were so honored to have them over a week before the wedding day. In honor of this wonderful occasion, we cracked open some wonderful wines and Benyamin brought a pair of wonderful wines, one that we have had before, and one that is still under wraps. We did have one dud that shocked me greatly given Daniel’s rating of it, but so it goes. For this dinner we started with lovely roasted squash bisque. Yeah, I said bisque – simply because most of the famous roasted squash soups calls for a ton of cream or soup stock and they render the soup into essentially a thin and boring presentation of such a lovely vegetable. So we decided that this was not going to work. Instead we went with a hybrid. We roasted two sliced squash for 1 and a half hour. While that was going on, we browned quite nicely a pair of diced/sliced onions while the roasting was going on. Once that was done, we threw the lightly blackened squash into our large soup pot, and threw in a bottle of white wine. We then puréed the pot until it was a bit mushy, but not creamy or thinner. Instead it was thick bisque. On top of that we threw in, what we thought was, a bit too much orange zest (which worked out in the end), thyme, and nutmeg. Yes, this soup does match well with the season, but that was not the inclination for making the soup. Rather, there was a cold spell coming through the area, and we wanted to have a thick and warm soup to start off the meal.
Roasted Squash Soup
2 butternut squash, peeled and cubed into large chunks
Olive Oil Spray
Garlic, Nutmeg
3 onions
Bottle of white wine
Vegetable Stock – if more liquid is needed
Grated Ginger
Orange Zest
Nutmeg
Cinnamon
Cooked chickpeas
Cayenne pepper (if you can handle it)
Peel and cube the squash and lay them in an oiled baking sheet. Spray them with olive oil and sprinkle garlic powder and nutmeg over them. Bake them at 400 degrees until slightly blackened. While roasting the squash, we browned the pair of diced/sliced onions quite well. Once that was done, we threw the lightly blackened squash into our large soup pot, and threw in a bottle of white wine. We then puréed the pot until it was a bit mushy, but not creamy or thin. Once the soup consistency starts to change, grate the ginger and orange zest, drop in cinnamon and nutmeg to taste. Honestly, I rarely follow amounts. I add till it tastes right. Once the bisque is in motion and mixing well, we throw in the cooked chickpeas to add a cool twist of texture. I personally love to add in cayenne pepper, but many do not.
After the soup we served meat lasagna, along with roasted green beans, spinach quiche, and fresh green salad. The dinner worked well, and the wines paired wonderfully. We had six bottles in total. Benyamin brought three and we opened three as well. Benyamin brought two experimental bottles that will remain undefined for now and one bottle of a 1999 Bustan Merlot. I opened a 2001 Yarden Ortal Merlot, a 2001 Capcanes Peraj Ha’Abib, and a 2002 Capcanes Peraj Ha’Abib. The Bustan was a massive dud, while the three that we opened up were fantastic – thank you :-).
I do not have an official tasting note for the 1999 Bustan Merlot, but to say the least it was DOA (Dead On Arrival). The wine, to be fair, was full in the mouth, but it had almost no fruit and no real complexity at all. What it did have was a nice mouth and that was about it. Really a shame. The other three wine notes can be found below in the order they were drunk:
2002 Cellar de Capçanes Peraj Ha’abib, Flor de Primavera, Montsant – Score: A-
This was either the clear winner or it came in tied with the 2001 Yarden Ortal Merlot. The nose on this crazy black colored wine was screaming with rich tobacco, sweet oak, super ripe plum, blackberry, cassis, and raspberry. The mouth on this full bodied wine has now soft tannins, sweet oak, blackberry, plum, and tobacco. The mid palate is smooth with balanced acidity, and soft mouth coating tannins. The finish is super long and extracted in a polished manner, with more acid, tobacco, black fruit, and licorice. What a wonderful wine, I have no more, but again very happy that I drank it at a nice point in its life curve.
2001 Cellar de Capçanes Montsant Peraj Ha’abib Flor de Primavera – Score: A-
The nose on this deep black colored wine is popping with blackberry, plum, cassis, sweet oak, licorice, and tobacco. The mouth on this full bodied wine is still clearly tannic in nature and far from integrated. The mouth is layered with sweet oak, blackberry and cassis. The mid palate is packed with not yet integrated tannins, bright acidity, and concentrated black fruit that comes at you in layers. Where the 2002 vintage has integrated tannins, this vintage has mouth puckering tannins. The finish is super long and concentrated with dark chocolate, tobacco, more black fruit, and acidity. Quite a nice wine as well, but still not quite there yet. I have scored this bottle a bit lower than our previous tasting, because of the tannins, but the rest is holding well, though I missed the mint this time around.
2001 Yarden Ortal Vineyard Merlot – Score: A-
Thank God this wine is back! The last time we tasted this wine it was as close to a dud as this wine can be :-). Now it is back, it is sleek and beautiful. The nose on this dark purple colored win is alive and talkative, with blackberry, ripe plum, licorice, and rich oak. The mouth on this full bodied wine is mouth coating and plush with layers upon layers of ripe plums, blackberry, and integrating mouth coating tannins. The mid palate is popping with balancing acid, chocolate, and roasted herbs. The finish is luxurious and long with more black fruit, chocolate, tobacco, and sweet oak. Thank goodness this wine is back. It was either a close second place finish to the 2002 Capcanes or it was tied. By score alone it was in second place, but thanks goodness man does not live upon score alone, but by the word, expression, and feelings that a wine leaves you with after it is long gone.
Baked Gefilte Fish Loaf, Sweet and Sour Brisket, Roasted Root Vegetables, Tzora Cabernet Sauvignon Givat haChalukim, Yarden Merlot, Four Gates Merlot, Yarden Ortal Vineyard Merlot, Galil Mountain Winery Merlot
This past weekend saw us hosting one of our epic Friday night dinners. We had friends and family over and I was really looking forward to tasting the Ortal Merlot, the best Merlot made in Israel by far. We have had it a few times, but not for a couple of years now. We purposely made a triple baked fish, brisket. and roasted vegetables on Wednesday to serve at both meals, and that worked out quite nicely, go there to see the recipes.
The night was supposedly meant to be Merlot night, but when I looked into the cellar, I did not have that much Merlot. So I started with a 2005 Four Gates Merlot M.S.C. (that Benyamin brought over and still available for purchase), and threw in a Cab that I have been holding for too long, and finished with some not so spectacular Merlot bottles. The 2005 Tzora Givat Hachalukim Cabernet was awesome, and one I brought in by hand a few years ago from Israel. Well worth the effort, and one that is not available here – though the 2006 is available and really yummy.
Tzora is one of those wineries that truly appreciate terroir and a winery that is helping to define a flavor to Israeli wines. Major kudos to them, especially after the passing of Ronnie James, the founder of the winery. The first two bottles we had were really great and we thought that we were going to have one of those magical wine evenings. That all came to a screaming halt when we had the two Yarden Merlot(s), which is a real shame. I had been looking forward to tasting them and as you will see, they did not live up to the billing. I can only hope that the Ortal merlot (of which I have a few more), is not dead in my cellar.
The meal was wonderful, and even better was the chance to catch up with my family after the meal, really quite nice. The wine notes follow below, in the order they were drank:
2005 Four Gates Merlot M.S.C. – Score: A-
The nose on this almost black colored wine is packed with blackberry, cherry, plum, eucalyptus, and oak. The nose and body have a fair amount of oak, more than I remembered before, I guess the wine is in a phase where the oak is showing a bit more right now. The fruit is still very forward on this massive and brooding full bodied wine. The mouth starts with more blackberry and raspberry. It flows into a complex mid palate layered with oak, acid, tight tannins, and a nice amount of coffee. The finish is long and luxurious with more black fruit, balancing acidity, and a dollop of espresso.
2005 Tzora Givat Hachalukim Cabernet Sauvignon – Score: A-
This was a fun bottle of Cabernet. The nose on this garnet colored wine is popping with cassis, plum, blackberry, raspberry, oak, and chocolate. The mouth on this full bodied wine is velvety with tight tannins, cassis, plum, and raspberry. The mid palate is popping with acidity, tannin, and oak. It flows into a long, satisfying, and spicy finish with more black fruit, oak, and chocolate.
2003 Yarden Merlot – Score: B
The nose on this garnet to black colored wine, was fresh with cherry, blackberry, and cassis. The mouth on this full bodied wine was over ripe and almost oxidized, much like the Yarden Ortal we had the same night. The wine’s full bodied structure was able to support the oak but was overpowered by the overripe/oxidized fruit. The finish was long with fruit melding nicely with vanilla and herbs.
2001 Yarden Ortal Vineyard Merlot – Score: B+
This wine is meant to be a blockbuster, but something was wrong this night. The wine tasted almost off/oxidized or maybe extra fruity. Either way, it was not a hit. The nose on this wine was absolutely awesome, with big spicy oak, super jammy blackberry, plum, and chocolate. But once we tasted the wine all bets were off, which is a real shame, because it was a huge bodied wine with blackberry and cassis, along with a luscious mouth feel, that was totally thrown off kilter by the over jammy and/or oxidized flavors. The mouth was complex with layers of fruit that flowed into a tannic and acidic core. The finish was pure heaven with chocolate, oak, and tobacco. Real shame.
2005 Galil Mountain Winery Merlot – Score: B+
Nice wine indeed, rich and satisfying, while keeping itself in balance and check, a nice showing. The nose of this black colored wine is screaming with cranberry, raspberry, green pepper, and herbs. The mouth of this full bodied wine is velvety with raspberry and cranberry. The mid palate is bright with complex layers of fruit, acidity and terroir. The finish is long with more fruit, acidity, and herbs. Read the rest of this entry