Category Archives: Israel
Kosher Wine 101 2.0 and my rebuttal to many poorly writen articles on kosher wine
I cannot help myself; I am one of those guys who track all web pages and news articles that talk about kosher wine and Israeli wine. So, I was excited to see an article recently about kosher wine, titled kosher wine is kosher in Israel that was written by the Indian Wine Academy. The article had some serious issues that made me really unhappy. Kosher wine already has enough perceived issues – it does not need more stupidity and ignorance. I am sorry if I am coming at this too harshly but it really bugs me!
My post on kosher wine is the top hit on Google for kosher wine and it covers all locals and issues with kosher wine. The article by the Indian Wine Academy has a somewhat harsh slant on kosher supervision and worse; it has many incorrect statements on kosher wine production. My many comments below will not make sense if you do not brush up on the many aspects of kosher wine, which I cover in my Kosher 101 blog.
This is not the only article with incorrect information about kosher wine. Another example is an article about the way that Capcanes makes kosher wine. Again, the information is incorrect, as it was pulled from Daniel’s book and the issues in Israel do not relate to Spain (where Capcanes exists) or America, except for Orlah – which is easily handled.
The Indian Wine Academy’s article on kosher wine feels a bit harsh when talking about kosher wine and they start it off by talking about the wines they tasted at the Barkan Winery. After that, they start going through the laws that they perceive defines kosher wine. They made MANY mistakes and I am listing the mistakes below and my personal rebuttal to them:
The article:
- started with a rather attention grabbing headline – Women are a no-no
- Actually, this is categorically WRONG! Women who are Orthodox may work in the winery and in the wine making process. So you may ask – prove it! Sure, I called Rabbi Nachum Rabinowitz, the Senior Rabbinic Coordinator, from the OU (one of the top kosher supervision organizations). He said there is NO issue with an orthodox woman working in a winery – PERIOD!
- then stated that the Mashgi’ah‘s (kosher wine supervisor) gets paid by the winery.
- Actually, the supervisor is NOT paid directly by the winery. The winery pays the supervision company and they pay the Mashgi’ah. This limits the potential for conflict of interest. This may sound like a small issue – but it is NOT. It is a Chinese wall that protects both the supervisory agent and the winery.
- then stated that touching a barrel or vat, no matter the financial impact, renders the container non-kosher.
- Actually, this is true, but I need to add a caveat, that if a non-orthodox Jew touches a closed barrel or vat – there are NO issues. The vat or barrel must be open for issues to arise. Further, the wine needs to move – which is rather complicated in a vat that is attached to the ground or a barrel that is rather heavy. That said, the rules are the rules and it is best to follow them to the T.
- then stated that mevushalprocess can affect the aroma and flavors of a wine.
- While I agree, for the most part, that the mevushal process ruins many a wine, there are many wineries that do a very good job of mevushal – like Herzog, Hagafen, and even Shiloh Winery. That said, I agree that mevushal wine, not made by one of these exemplary wineries, should be consumed with a year of bottling.
- then talks about the 3rd and 7th year, without much information about them
- Actually, the 7th year, also called Shmitta, where the land lays fallow every 7 years, applies only in Israel. Further, there is no law, in the present day that mandates anything special during the 3rd year.
- then talks about tartaric acid and barrels which are fine, and then states that oak chips and oak powder are produced in Israel
- Actually this may be the case but it is not necessary. One can buy the chips and powder from the same place that they buy their barrels.
So there you have it! My rebuttal to a few weird and highly mistaken kosher wine law fallacies! Please spread the word – kosher wine is not that hard to make! It is because of uninformed writers like this that kosher wine gets a bad rap – that is NOT deserved!
Kosher wine tasting at the Cask in LA featuring Celler de Capcanes and Shiloh Winery Wines
This past week my friend and I 
drove down to Los Angeles, CA to taste kosher wines at the 2012 Herzog International Food and Wine Festival (IFWF). The night before the IFWF we called The Cask, a new wine store on Pico, in Los Angeles, and they said they were having a wine tasting. I guess in my life, you can never taste too much wine! Though to get to the Cask, I had to drive for 1 hour to go 4 miles! My goodness, LA is really a nasty place to drive around during rush hour!
The Cask is not the first wine store in LA, but it is the first kosher-only wine store in Los Angeles, catering to the Jewish crowd that geographically surrounds it from all sides. There have been kosher wine stores before in LA, but a store that sells only kosher wine does take serious courage in this economy.
The Cask, the brain child of Michael Bernstein and Sivan Vardi (Sivan has since moved on), opened quietly, and just in time for Passover 2011. It had its red carpet grand opening in June 2011, with a real red carpet for people to show off their love for wine and haute couture. Interestingly, while neither partner has been part of the retail wine business before, the event I was at was well attended and went off without any hitch, from what I could see.
The front of the store, looks like any other wine store you may find yourself in on an early Friday afternoon looking for some wine to go with you cholent and roast chicken. However, the layout is still quite nice and the prices are competitive, from the quick check that I did Thursday night. However, the website is the weakest link. It is missing the social touch that is sorely needed to be competitive in this market, something that Sivan seemed to be doing before she left in September of last year. The prices are not on the site and the daily deals still show a wine from last September.
Clearly, the Cask is not trying to copy or do battle with some dude in his basement who cobbles up a kosher online wine store. Rather the Cask is all about the local touch of a high-end store where you taste and experience the wine with winemakers or wine professionals. Sure, maybe LA doesn’t need another place to go and buy kosher wine, though the Cask fills that admirably. What LA craves is the ability to walk into an establishment that has 200 or more wines and not be bewildered by the selection. The hope of the store is to educate the kosher drinking public about the hundreds of options available, and let them decide which wines best suit their palate or cuisine.
I was so excited when Michael answered the phone, on Tuesday night, and told me about the wine tasting. It would be an opportunity for me to get some quality time with Jurgen Wagner of Capcanes (one of the best kosher wines on the market) and Mayer Chomer, CEO of Shiloh Winery. Capcanes has been making true world-class kosher wine since 1998 in Spain’s Monstat wine region, 100 miles southwest of Barcelona and 20 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The Shiloh Winery has been making kosher wine in Israel’s Judean Hills since 2005, when Chomer established it in the city of Shiloh.
I have had the opportunity to meet and talk with Jurgen at past IFWF events but I had never yet met Chomer, so it was quite a treat to say the least. It is this kind of immersive experience, food, great wine, and knowledgeable interaction that Bernstein is looking for. The opportunity to learn about the wines from the very people who make it and distribute it – that is what makes the Cask such a unique and required destination when shopping for wine in LA.
Observing from afar, I could not help but notice the many people who came and went from the event, even Jurgen and Chomer commented on it as well. The crowd was young and educated, enjoying the wine and food, while showing interest in learning about what they like and dislike. Many of them were clearly repeat customers and friends as the camaraderie between the customers and Bernstein were filled with tidbits about the wine and conversation about past tastings.
Clearly all kosher wine purveyors make their money during these times – think of it like the Black Friday for kosher wine. Some online kosher wine vendors actually have a countdown clock for how much longer you can buy wine for Passover, depending upon where you live. However, the tastings do not start and end with the weeks around Passover. The tasting room can be rented out by anyone who has a passion for good food and wine and it is truly one of the differentiating factors that The Cask has over other brick and mortar stores selling kosher wine in the LA area.
My many thanks to Michael Bernstein and his staff for hosting the event with Royal Wine’s Gary Landsman and Seth. Along with both Jurgen Wagner and Mayer Chomer for taking the time to talk about their wines. The wine notes follow below in the order they were enjoyed:
2009 Shiloh Shor Barbera (Mevushal) – Score: B+ to A-
Barbera is one of those wines that can be massive or a medium bodied. It is a fruit that likes the Mediterranean environment and heat that wineries in Israel struggle with. I would not be surprised if we see more wineries in Israel using this varietal in more wines. Galil makes a lovely wine with this varietal as does a few boutique wineries in Israel. The nose on this light purple colored wine is filled with espresso coffee, currant, raspberry, crushed herb, prune, light hints of oak, chocolate, and vanilla. The mouth on this medium bodied wine is rich and spicy with red candied fruit, high alcohol, mouth coating tannin, nice yet restrained oak, and herb all coming into a mouth that feels coated. The finish is long and spicy with vanilla, red fruit, light leather, spice, prune, and chocolate.
2007 Shiloh Petite Syrah, Secret Reserve (90% PS and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) – Score: A-
As many of you know I have a strong affinity to Petite Sirah, the spelling above and on the bottle is not misspelled, that is what Shiloh uses. PS is one of those varietals that is complicated by the confusion around the name and the grape style, but it has nothing to do with Syrah. Rather it is a separate varietal that is also called Durif. The grape has been successful in Israel, with Carmel and others doing a bang-up job by letting the vines grow old and thereby limiting the vine’s vigorous yields.
The nose on this dark garnet to purple colored wine starts off with burnt and toasted oak, raspberry, high alcohol, ripe blackberry, blackcurrant, nice chocolate, and bright fruit. The mouth on this full bodied wine is spicy with heavy spice, lots of black pepper, cloves, heavy mouth coating tannin, and oak that creates a massive and grabbing mouthfeel. The finish on this spice monster starts off with huge black pepper, cinnamon, sweet oak, still not integrated tannin, date, chocolate, leather, and vanilla. A nice effort for this under appreciated varietal and one that is worth finding.
2006 Shiloh Cabernet Sauvignon, Secret Reserve – Score: A-
This wine is a nice diversion from the almost repetitive ripe black fruit and heavy oak Israeli Cabernet out there. This one is unique and lovely and one that is concentrated and flavorful. The nose on this dark garnet colored wine is lovely with nice candied fruit, ripe raspberry, black plum, light chocolate, alcohol, cranberry, and heavy spice. The mouth on this full bodied wine cannot help but hit you with a full on salvo of spice, concentrated and focused ripe and candied red fruit, integrating tannin, nice oak, that comes together into a lovely mouthfeel. The finish is long and spicy with more candied fruit, integrated tannin, chocolate, spice, and vanilla.
2008 Capcanes Peraj Petita – Score: A-
I know this is Capcanes’s entry level wine, but personally this wine is better than many wines I drink year round! This is a rich and lovely wine that as always needs time to get its parts all working together at the same time, and the 2008 vintage is there now! It is a wine that has enough body to keep your attention while also being balanced enough to enjoy throughout the meal, with light and heavy foods.
The nose on this garnet colored wine is expressive with toasty oak, espresso coffee, almost burnt notes, raspberry, cranberry, nice spice, and herb. The mouth on this medium to full bodied wine is lovely with mouth coating tannins that are just starting to integrate nicely, along with toasty oak and coffee, and red fruit that gives the wine a larger than life mouthfeel. The finish is long and spicy with bright fruit, nice spice, vanilla, coffee, and date.
2007 Capcanes Flor de Flor – Score: A- to A
This is a wine that only recently became kosher, a cuvee of the winery’s Cabrida wine. The wine is made entirely from old vine Grenache that are said to be 80 to 1110 years old. I have now had this wine four times, and this is the second time I have really liked this wine. The nose on this garnet colored wine is explosive with rich espresso coffee, roasted meat, heavy burnt toast, raspberry, candied cranberry, plum, nice spice, heavy chocolate, vanilla. The mouth on this rich and layered wine starts with a nice concentration of of red candied fruit, still heavy mouth coating tannin, and spice that all leads into a mouth that makes you stand up and take notice. The finish is long and spicy with more spice, not yet integrated tannin, herb, chocolate, espresso, tobacco, and vanilla. This is a rich and extracted wine that really needs another year or so to let all of its components settle down into a wine that is a bit more accessible.
2008 Capcanes Peraj Ha’abib, Flor de Primavera – Score: A- to A
The nose on this garnet to black colored wine is screaming with blackberry, cassis, black plum, chocolate, mocha, rich toasty burnt cedar, candied raspberry, and spice – what a nose! The mouth on this full bodied wine is layered with black fruit, still not integrated mouth coating tannin, toasty cedar, and concentrated fruit, that comes together in a lovely and spicy manner. The wine is nice and balanced, but still coming together in all its parts. The finish is super long and spicy, with more nice toasty cedar, chocolate, black fruit, and a hint of black olives. The toasty cedar, plum, blackberry, and chocolate linger nicely.
Gush Etzion Winery – One of the oldest and up and coming wineries of the Judean Hills
This is the ninth article I am writing on wineries from the Judean Hills wine region of Israel. This particular winery is located just outside the city of Gush Etzion in the Judea region. The winery was a not even a figment of their imagination when Shraga and Tamar Rosenberg moved to Efrat, which is located in Gush Etzion, in the heart of Judea, just south of Jerusalem in 1986. However, the blackberry bush in their backyard looked interesting and their neighbors told them that it could be used to make fermented juice. So with the simple act of fermented blackberry juice (sorry I cannot bring myself to call that wine) was born the desire to, in time, create a world-class winery in the Judean Hills! He was not so different than another pioneer in the Israeli wine world, Eli ben Zaken of Castel Winery, who also left his job to create a world-class winery. Though Gush Etzion has not yet reached the level of Castel in terms of overall wine quality, it is steadily making its way up the hill.
Most would not associate wine and blackberry juice, but for Rosenberg it was a great gateway beverage to acquire the yearning for something a bit more real. With time, Rosenberg realized that wine was his real future and he started tinkering with it in his basement – a classic garagiste! During that time his ultimate dream was growing, of building a winery that would prove the words of the Patriarch Jacob, who prophesied to his son Yehuda some 3000 years ago: “Binding unto the vine, his foal, and unto the choice vine, the colt of his ass; he will launder his garments in wine and his robe in the blood of grapes. His eyes shall sparkle with wine, and his teeth white with milk” (Bereishit 49:11-12). Commenting on these verses, Rashi states, “[Yaakov] prophesied regarding the land of Yehudah, that it would produce wine like a fountain.”
As his tinkering continued friends told him how much they loved his wines and one thing led to another – with Rosenberg officially leaving his managerial position at senior citizen’s home to become a farmer and winemaker! In 1995, with the decision already made, he started to look around for enough grapes to make his dream a reality. To do this he reached out to growers in the area and he quickly found out that if he wanted to make this happen, he would need to plant his own vineyard and augment it in the time being with what he could find in the area. With total control on his vineyard, Rosenberg could manage the vines to make the kind of wine that he sees as world-class, rather than the yield and size that the growers wanted.
As the winery started to grow so did their output. In 1998 the Rosenbergs released their first vintage from their newly minted winery, in the basement of their house in Efrat. They initial vintage consisted of 7000 bottles, which is quite large if you are doing all the work in your basement! The varietals for the first year were all from the Noble grapes; Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc. Since then both the varietals and bottles have increased. By 2009 mass planted had expanded the winery’s vineyards to about 120 acres. Among the varieties planted include; Chardonnay, Organic Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, White Riesling, Shiraz, Merlot, Organic Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Gewurztraminer and Viognier.
Bravdo Karmei Yosef Winery – A World Class Laboratory for Two Renowned Viticulture Professors
Israel’s wine industry may well be 100+ or a few thousand years old, depending upon how old you are or how deep your convictions run. Carmel winery made a wine, simply called #1, as in those days that was how they labeled their wines. In 1900, at the Paris Fair, it was rated as a gold label wine! A few thousand years before that, wine was made for the temple, wine made in the Judean Hills. Still, the existing rebirth of the Israeli wine Industry, that seemed to go to sleep for some seventy to eighty years, was reborn on the backs of professors like Professor Ben Ami Bravdo, the head wine maker and co-founder of the Bravdo Winery. I think it was Adam Montefiore who stated that the true genius behind the success of the Golan Heights Winery (Yarden), was not only its fine grapes, but the fact that they were smart enough to follow Carmel, in 1983, and hire only wine makers with a degree from renowned universities, like U.C. Davis and Hebrew University. It may sound obvious now, but 30 or more years ago that was not always the case.
Around that very same time, Ben Ami Bravdo was inaugurated with his now synonymous professor title from Hebrew University. Though even before his official title, he was already teaching students for 16 years on the intricacies of agriculture and viticulture. It is not hard to see how this man is a truly influential figure in the Israeli wine industry, if you do a bit of digging. For some 35 years Professor Bravdo trained hundreds or even thousands of aspiring agriculturalists, including many of Israel’s leading winemakers. Of the four or more existing universities in Israel focusing on agriculture, Hebrew University is the oldest and the most famous.
When people call a person by their old or past title, such as Senator or Congressman, I always laugh because sure they worked to get that title and rise to the fame that it bestows upon its holder. Still, once they are out of office or power, the title does not fit the holder. With Professor Bravdo, nothing could be further from the truth. For some 40 years, from 1962 till 2001, he trained and studied the effects of viticulture in regards to both the final product; wine, and in regards to the ecology and environment. Bravdo was one of the many scientists who early on spearheaded the usage of drip irrigation in both Israel and abroad for a multitude of applications, including many New World wineries. In 2001 he left the University and was bestowed the Professor Emeritus title, one very befitting his time at the University, and still in the industry.
It was during his tenure at Hebrew University that he met and later advised, his now wine laboratory partner, Oded Shoseyov. It was Shoseyov’s PhD thesis that fascinated Bravdo, the biochemistry of grape and wine flavor evolution. Together they quenched the thirst of the starving minds that passed through their lecture halls, the very same minds that lead wineries and agricultural powerhouses the world around. Shortly after Shoseyov’s PhD they collaborated on improving and developing viticulture methods for optimizing the grape aromas, as well as experimenting with the chemical properties of the wine must and wine to improve wine and aroma qualities.
Flam Winery – The venerable European-styled family boutique winery, that is now kosher
Our culture is very quick to exaggerate for the sake of sensationalism and many in the wine industry press or bloggers have never missed a chance to prove it. Still, every so often we get it right! Use the word boutique in conjunction with a winery, and everyone from Mondavi down to your local corner Garagiste, will lay claim to being one. If you then throw in the terms family owned and European styled, believe it or not, you can still find many who are willing to lay claim to them as well. Thankfully, I was able to spend some quality time at a perfect example of exactly what we are talking about, the Flam Winery, in the rustic Judean Hills.
In a previous post concerning Ella Valley Winery, I have already discussed what I believe to be the definition of a boutique winery. In a sentence or more, it means a crazy (in a good way) level of oversight from the mundane to the essential. Of course, my take leaves a large enough space to drive a semi-trailer through, as exemplified in these retorts to my post. With that said, to me Flam Winery exemplifies many of the aspects of what I look for when talking about a boutique winery. Yes, they are smallish, at some 120 thousand bottles a year, along with very tight oversight of their vineyards. Flam leases five vineyards throughout the country, three in the Judean hills area and two in the upper Galilee. The vineyards are leased so that Golan Flam, the head winemaker, can work hand in hand with the vineyard manager, and know that they will both get what they want. The vineyard knows it will be paid on a consistent manner, per acre. While, Golan knows that the vineyard will be managed with quality as the benchmark and not quantity. Also, Golan has the opportunity to work hand on with the vineyard manager to maximize the potential of the grapes, in the direction that he thinks is most beneficial to the vineyard and the winery.
There are a few famous family owned wineries, including Castel Winery in the Judean Hills, and Tulip Winery in the Galilee. Flam Winery, of course is also on the short list of quality family run wineries. Flam Winery, which was started in 1998, is a personification of Golan’s dream to create an Israeli wine estate, focused on premium quality wines. The dream was hatched after graduating from Hebrew University with a bachelor’s degree in agriculture, on a trip through Tuscany, Italy in 1996. While on a fascinating tour amongst the splendid wineries of this enchanting region, Gilad & Golan decided to build a boutique winery in the Land of Israel, which should be surrounded by superb vineyards, and would be the source of the best possible Israeli wines. Golan returned to Italy to get his Master’s degree in Enology, and worked at Carpineto Winery in Tuscany, and in Australia as well. In 1998 Golan returned to Israel to be the wine maker of Flam, and joined forces with his brother Gilad, a successful lawyer and businessman, who runs marketing and Business Development. They recruited their mother, Kami, a successful businesswoman to be the winery’s CFO, and they leaned heavily in the beginning on their father, who was then the head wine maker for Carmel Winery.
Israel – the Middle East’s version of Disneyland for Kosher Wineries and kosher Oenophiles
I know that Daniel Rogov calls Israel the Disneyland of the Middle East, purely in jest of course, but I look at it from a slightly different perspective. Officially, in the bible, Israel is called a land flowing with milk and honey. The bible states honey, but it means date and fig honey. I always wondered why God chose milk and dates as a singular definition of the fruitfulness of the land of Israel? The truth is, that while it is a description for sure, it is not the land’s agricultural definition. A more detailed definition of the land of Israel can be found in Deuteronomy. For the Lord, thy God, brings you into a good land, a land of brooks of water, and fountains and depths spring forth in valleys and hills. A land of wheat and barley, and vines and fig trees and pomegranates, a land of olive oil and honey (8:7-8). Now that is something I can get my head around!
To me Israel is the land filled with drivers who think that the laws of gravity, along with lane markers, and driving ethics do not apply to them! It is filled with people who love the land, the country, and its rich history. It is a land of our forefathers, who walked on it more than five thousand years ago. It is the land of kings, hatred, tragedy, and love. It is a land filled with history that leaps out of the rocks, the valleys, the mountains, and the sweeping vistas. It is a land that filled with memories of our past; the Jewish people, who built, destroyed, lost, and lived in the land. They built temples and lost them one by one; they built them again, only once more to see it obliterated. Yet they came back again, showing the ultimate Jewish traits; love, compassion, and perseverance through all of their tribulations.
The people of the land are called Sabras for a reason. They are hardheaded prickly folks who can scream or ignore you as if you did not exist one minute, and then turn into the most loving, compassionate, and mild-mannered soul that is the true spark of the nation.
To me, beyond all these truths, Israel is a land of kosher and non-kosher wineries, vineyards that stretch for as far as the eye can see, all within a throws distance, to the graves of Rabbis past. Israel is a land with wine presses dating back thousands of years ago. It is a land of wine rejuvenation and revolution. It is a land that I wish I could call home, but one I am proud to return to whenever the opportunity calls. It is a land of our forefathers, a long beautiful and sometimes sad history of our people, but a land we can all call home. It is a land flowing with milk, date honey, wheat, olives, figs, wine, love, compassion, and perseverance, all wrapped up in a prickly package, that requires just a key of love and patience to open.
Throughout the coming weeks I will, God willing, finally get down to writing about my winery visits, my driving excursions, the people I visited with, and the wines I tasted along the way. So please stay tuned for a wonderful series of upcoming posts on Israel; the Disneyland of kosher wineries.
